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For the Pirate Girl render model at the far right, we darkened every part except for her eyes. Finally, choose a 3D environment to place your model in. From velvety dark gradient backgrounds to tropical beaches, each environment can be separately adjusted for lighting, reflection, and so on…. You can display Sketchfab in your i. This design is by Sketchfab user electronicfox. He does low-poly and high poly modeling work, and can be reached here. Now you know how to upload and share your designs with Sketchfab the easy way!

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The width of the seamless parts of the railing is mm. The licence mentioned above the download button is just an indication. The free AutoCAD file of a Villa including levels, facades, plans, furniture, side elevation view, front view.

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This time, three sister ships. We try to update our database every day. There is some overlap with contemporary house plans with our modern house plan collection featuring those plans that push the envelope in a visually forward-thinking way.

A free file archiver for extremely high compression three. You can also search our full product library using the search box above. Discount with 20 percent in paper style. Modern computer games feature sprawling residential areas with buildings that can be entered and explored. So, take our modern house designs concepts that are available with PDF plans. As far as matter concern about the quality this fact that in the date of today we are redefining the quality and also latest technology.

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Beach House. Villa plan dwg free download Architecture layout plan, roof floor plan, all side elevation plan and section plan of modern villa plan. If interested, you might also download 44 additional free 3D models designed for the Forensics by Scopia. If you would like to suggest a model for this section, you can submit it here. FlyingArchitecture Sukova 4, 00 Brno, Czech Republic AutoCAD is a very useful software for generating 2D,3D modern house plans and all type of plans related to your imaginary layout it will transform in drawings and these drawings are very useful for the best implementation to your dream project ,likewise if you want to create the finest layout of 2 bhk apartment then AutoCAD is the best software Download Modern Villa 3d Max Model Free in.

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An icon used to represent a menu that can be toggled by interacting with this icon. Under this category you can download 3D animated PowerPoint templates with 3D models created exclusively for PowerPoint presentations.

We will use a combination of Arnold area quad lights and HDR maps for creating realistic specular reflections in the scene. To keep All3DP free and independent, we finance ourselves through advertising and affiliate revenues.

It can be helpful as a sample to see how we create our PowerPoint templates, graphics and diagrams. Thanks to reinforced concrete and stilts, there is no need for bearing walls and Le Corbusier lets the interior of the villa open and free in its usage. SketchUp excels at practical and architectural design and probably has more in common with a CAD package than traditional surface modelers like Maya and Max. The large library Bathroom cad blocks is absolutely free for you, all files are in DWG format and are suitable from the version of Autocad to the present day.

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Thank you very much to admins that allowed me to share, with all friends of SketchUp Texture Club, my 3D model of this small modern villa, made in SketchUp , but available in sketchUp 8. Log in to 3db3.

This way you can easily find the free dwg drawing you are looking for. It is actually an interior design software which also lets you design 3D bathroom model.

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Masjid Jaami’ul Khair. Max Zip files — ID Update your device or try on another device House SketchUp 3D models for download, files in skp with low poly, animated, rigged, Modern House Day max c4d lwo skp fbx obj 3ds: 9 Free Modern House 25 Feb I am an architectural 3d Visualizer. You are free to use and modify these models in your own scenes on the condition that you agree not to redistribute or sell then without my consent.

For 3D modeling for Sketchup. Free 3D House models available for download. Modern villa 3d model free download. Aug 10, – Explore P. Please find below a selection of free 3D Sketchup models that I have created. Vector illustration with a realistic shadow. Similarly First floor as 3 bedroom house with a central lounge. BIMsmith Market. As the models are meant to create a sense of scale and mass, you need to make it as real as you can.

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CAD Blocks in plan and elevation view. BIMsmith Market has a rapidly expanding library of tens of thousands of free Revit families that have been modeled by the BIMsmith team of in-house architects. Websites to download Revit Families for free: 1. Free Villa 3D models for download, files in 3ds, max, c4d, maya, blend, obj, fbx with low poly, animated, rigged, game, and VR options.

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Download a free trial of SketchUp, a premier 3D modeling software today! Modern home plans present rectangular exteriors, flat or slanted roof-lines, and super straight lines.

Free 3D Model Download. Download this Premium Photo about 3d modern house,. Share yours for free! Open floor plans are a signature characteristic of this style. These autocad blocks are in dwg and dxf format, free Download.

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Sooooo gonna be honest here. The advantage of transparent image is that it can be used efficiently. Netflix and maybe Funimation and Crunchyroll 2. The another ways are anime sites, Google is your friend.

Nothing in this video is mine. Directed by Goro Taniguchi, the first episode of the series was aired 11 years ago. The producing studio announced the revival of the hit anime and revealed that they are coming for the CG season 3. On the 10th anniversary celebrations of the series, a special event was organised and the title of the event was Code Geass: Lelouch of the Rebellion: Anniversary of a Miracle.

The event includes the teasers and spoilers for the upcoming season of the series. The teaser made it clear that another season will come definitely in future.

Additionally, a three-part film series was also revealed in the event. The promo of the same is below. In the last episode of the second season, Lelouch was seen dying. But the trailer of the third instalment, he is alive with good physical appearance. The next instalment of the series will feature Lelouch will be sitting on the Holy Brittania Empire throne.

He had made solely promise to destroy the throne. Lelouch will get the support from an organisation, Order of the Black Knights and the Brittania Empire to save the world.

He will be working to clear the confusions which are set in the world. Later, a new terrorist group came into the picture which is creating the friction between the superpowers of the world. For the fans, it will be a somewhat different story. For them, the world constitutes of three superpowers which include the Holy Brittania Empire, the Chinese Federation, and the European Union. Lelouch is confirmed to be alive and will make a giant comeback. Code Geass R3 Season 3 has no release date but we expect late or Compilation films are set to be released later this year.

We will update you soon with more info so subscribe to be the first to get everything. Posts Likes Following Archive. Episode 5. Every episode makes me laugh. If you want to watch any show on TV, you better watch this.

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Now add the Epson scan to Windows 10 network connection in order to use it normally. You can find this at any hardware store or lumber dealer location. If all else fails, sand it off using a grit sandpaper to start and stepping down to a and then a grit to remove the stain while also smoothing the sanded surface of the trimboard.

John D. Love the result! We are installing trim around our windows with the brick mold that has the J-Channel attached. How do you correctly miter the joints of the corners? Hi Sandy, Have you seen a reply yet about your J-channel brick mold? I just ordered some to redo my exterior door frame and am anxious to find out not only how the miters turned out but how you liked the results. Are you using it with vinyl siding?

Is the J-channel too deep for vinyl or did it look ok? Are there any suppliers of white painted nails that can be used with a nail gun? Although you might find a nail with a painted head, the problem is keeping the paint on the head when the nail is shot from a gun or pounded into the trimboard. Once the paint comes off you now have to look for a nail hole filler and I can tell you no nail hole filler is an exact color match to any PVC trimboard.

Another option if your not willing to use screws and plugs is just a white headed trim screw. It will be less expensive than the screw and plug but more than the nail.

Based upon my experience in the field your carpenter was correct in choosing the screw and plug system. It is the best means of securing cellular PVC trim to the frame of a home, it gives you the best overall aesthetic appearance, and provides the greatest holding power. We have specific cases where this system survived hurricane Sandy without the trim pulling away from the home or becoming lose from the hurricanes negative wind pressure.

Plus you never have to worry about the screw holes or the color of the plugs since they are made from the same material as your trimboards. Good luck with your project. We have indoor support columns with PVC wraps.

After much abuse from the little ones in the house, the paint is chipping away on the endcaps. It appears as if, when they were installed, there is a thin layer of drywall or some filler covering the cap and pole under the paint which will need filled in before I repaint them.

Is there a good material to use for this? There are several filler and bonding materials compatible with cellular PVC. It is a two part epoxy that cures to a hardness equivalent to an acrylic sheet. It has exceptional bond strength to cellular PVC and comes in white. If all you are looking for is a filler that will bond to cellular PVC but not have the hardness or durability of TrimWelder, you can use just about any vinyl spackling sold by your local lumber dealer.

Pace, We have been asked to look at fixing some long runs of pvc fascia which split last winter. They actually sheered across the width, not at a joint, due to the cold. In the summer the jagged cracks all but close. However, as the temperature goes down the gaps increase. We have emailed azek and kleer for advice. They suggested adding screws and caulking the joints with a pvc joint caulk. We did both but with no real remedy. Short of removing the entire fascia, is there a fix?

Does that seem like it might work? Thanks for the help. To protect the joints on the top our sub kitchen sink cabinet doors, we need to install a drip edge below the sink.

Wood is not a good choice…. I believe pvc board is the way to go. The board will have rounded edges and perhaps decorative routing. What do you recommend to ensure water will not raise the paint. If my assumption is correct, here is how I would prepare the PVC trim piece for painting.

To minimize the size of the cells for painting, I would sand the trim piece after it has been routed with grit sand paper. I would then blow off any residual dust on the routed piece and wipe it down with a wet rag. This should give you a very smooth finish after painting.

Paint adhesion to PVC, when tested in accordance with ASTM test protocol, is excellent and equivalent to that of paint on a pine board. Your issue will not be with the substrate but the paint.

The paint manufacturer needs to specify a paint that will perform in a high moisture environment. If such a paint exists you should not have any paint adhesion issues. We sometimes make one piece CNC routed exterior shutters from Versatex.

Can these shutters be painted dark colours since they are basically free-standing isolated units? Why is it suggested that Versatex not be painted dark colours? Millwork shops and fabricators across the US have made one piece shutters and painted them dark colors with much success. Shutters made from multiple pieces have a tendency to open at the seams if painted certain dark colors like Black, Forest Green or Cocoa Brown.

The reasons dark shutter perform even when painted a dark color are because they are free standing, as you mentioned, and also the fact they are not very long or tall. All cellular PVC trim producers do not recommend they be painted dark colors. The reasons we do not recommend Versatex be painted a dark paint color are these: 1 Cellular PVC trim, no matter the manufacturer, has a heat distortion temperature of to F.

This is the temperature where cellular PVC begins to lose some of its physical properties. If you use an embossed or textured finish on your PVC trim board the pattern may disappear when the board reaches the heat distortion temperature. The amount of expansion or contraction of cellular PVC trim is directly proportional to the length of the board and the difference between the install temperature and the max and min temperatures the project will reach after installation.

It is best to try to minimize the max. Painting the board a dark color makes it more susceptible to excessive expansion and potential buckling on the wall if it is a long run of trim i. In my opinion a long run is 3 or more boards. John, I am replacing some wood posts and bottom wood ledge on my second story balcony due to dry rot.

The balcony has glass panels. Would like to use PVC molding if at all possible due to the non-dry rot capability. Is it appropriate to use a air nail gun to fasten the PVC molding to the wood post? If so, is there a max gauge I should use?

Am afraid the gluing the molding to the posts and ledge will not be sturdy enough to hold the glass securely and screws may be too big. Also, since the posts are white and I may have to paint the moldings to match, what paint should I use and what type of sealant should I use for the 90 degree seams in the corners? Thanks for any advise. Bille: Per your questions, yes it is appropriate to use an air nail gun to fasten the PVC moulding to the wood post.

Use an 18 gage or 16 gage trim nail. As for paint use any latex acrylic paint or a latex paint with urethane. There are many more that bond well to PVC trim. Can I use a double sided tape as she does not want to paint or see nail holes? We built a new home in extensively using Azek smooth trim boards throughout the exterior of the house.

We also used the Azek molded trim around windows and sills. The main exterior siding is Hardie Board. We did paint all of the trim. All of the trim and window surrounds are now in pretty bad shape after 6 years with the caulking having cracked and separated on just about every joint. Our builder attempted to use various sealants and bonding products recommended by Azek to fill in the joints several times over but none have held through the winter months.

Our house exterior is now a mess of failed joints. Our builder says that Azek has refused to provide any further assistance other to say that their installation procedures have changed since our house was built and that there is nothing wrong with the product. Other than replacing all of the exterior trim with another product, is there a something new on the market available that can be applied to the joints that will not crack and pull apart during cold weather months?

One aspect of our business that separates us from the competition is our analysis of complementary products to enhance the performance of our trim. I recommend their color which is a match to our trimboard but should also be a close match to your Azek trim.

I live in Pittsburgh and built an outdoor living area with Versatex Trim including the outdoor cabinetry. I used Solar Seal for the joints between our brick home and the trim.

Temperatures reached F last winter and the sealant performed as expected with no cracking or pulling apart at the seams. I recommend you call them to find a local supplier in your area. Their telephone number is You can also e-mail them at npc npcsealants. This article has a lot of good information that would have changed my approach to past PVC projects. But I still have a few questions, specifically about Versatex products:. I understand that they must be shimmed if using treated lumber due to twisting, so I am asking about untreated lumber.

Sorry for not responding sooner. In response to your questions. You can reinforce the gap between the wrap and the structural post using a dense insulation or even low to medium expansion spray foam insulation. It works well with both treated and untreated posts. Another way wraps are installed is to firmly attach them to the structural post on the side most likely to receive occasional contact and let the other three sides float.

In my 12 years in this industry, I have never seen an instance of any bleed through the PVC onto the face of the beaded ceiling. See Liquid Nails Sub-Floor spec sheet for further information on the product. Nails and screws might fracture the leg of the Stealth beadboard. The caulk failed after a few years and water leaks in. I recaulked, but the gap is just so large it looks like a long term problem. I carefully cut a piece of PVC board to trim around the windows and wanted to seal it really well to fill the area with the big crack that was previously caulked.

I used a DAP caulk that said was OK with PVC board, but after a month it never cured, so I had to undo a whole days work and pull the boards off and clean up the old wet caulk as well as I could.

I was thinking of trying again. Is there a caulk at the Lowes or HD that would bond well to both EIFS stucco and the vinyl window frame where I could have a smaller caulk seam around the window?

Thanks for the advice. Check with your local lumber yard. It is solvent based. Can I used this to caulk between PVC board and vinyl window frame. Thanks much for the suggestion. Hi John, I am building shutters in the Bahamas. I concerned about the warmer temps and the material sagging in temps of degrees. Am I right to be worried?

A temperature of degrees F is not a concern. Most cellular PVC has a heat distortion temperature of F which means the product will not lose any of its physical properties until it reaches a temperature equal to or higher than F.

One advantage you have in the Bahamas is the temperature differential high and low is not that great. I hope I have answered your question. Be sure to tell him he was recommended by John Pace at Versatex. I use PVC trim extensively in the new England region and love the products…I have a home in south Florida and would like to replace the wood trim with PVC and have not seen much of the product here.

Also, few dealers to buy from as well. I am wondering if the extreme temps have adverse effects to PVC trim here in the south.?? Also I am designing a pergola and am considering using the INTEX products and again what are the effects here in the south for these products? Thank you for any input…. New England was the first market to embrace cellular PVC trim and have done so in a big way.

The southeast including Florida has been slower to convert. Cellular PVC actually performs better in the south than in the northeast because the high to low temperature swing is much less.

Thus, it experiences less expansion and contraction. There are dealers stocking cellular PVC trim in Florida let me know if we can help you identify one. Also Intex is a great Millwork shop. However, there are also PVC Millwork shops throughout Florida fabricating all sorts of gingerbread items.

So in summary, you can use cellular PVC trim in Florida without any concerns or issues. I plan to build curved plywood forms to bend them on. Any advice regarding a heat gun purchase, etc etc? The most important installation issue is bonding and fastening the PVC sheet to the plywood form.

The concern here is bowing of the sheet between fasteners when exposed to the UV rays of the sun. The sun will heat this thin sheet and those areas not properly secured to the plywood frame will bow towards the sun.

These thin cellular PVC products are typically used by millwork shops and in the sign and graphics industry. If your interested in a non metal nail for this application Google Raptor Nails. This company makes nylon composite nails and have specific nail guns for installing their strip nails. We are planning on trimming a bathtub with pvc trim. Our tub is a standard in a raised wood platform. The tub lip buts up against wood. Questions ; what type of caulking should we use to seal to tub?

Should we miter and assemble on floor before installing?. Thank you. If this were an exterior application where we want maximum adhesion and sealant flexibility, we would choose a solvent based sealant. My second choice would be Quad for siding and roofing. Since this is an interior application, yes you can use an adhesive to attach the trim to a wood frame.

However, how do you plan to apply enough pressure to the PVC trim to get an adequate bond? However, that decision is up to you. Since the pvc can be routed like wood. Is this possible using a C. As for sealing the cuts by sanding and rubbing them with acetone, you do get more sealed cuts when following these steps and it is probably the best practice outside of painting.

I am planning on replacing some windows on the end of an A-frame house. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. PVC is non load bearing. Is the sash fixed in the frame or is it operable single hung, double hung, casement? You mentioned the fixed glass that you are replacing with Thermopane units. If the sash is fixed in the window what is the size of the sash?

If the sash is operable I recommend another material or reinforcing the cellular PVC with aluminum. As for sealant, silicone does not bond well to cellular PVC. You could try modified silicones like Quad Max or even Weather Master. This is a follow-up to my previous question. Your reply was very helpful in giving me a path forward. There are two identical units, and each unit has two upper fixed panes now thermopane , and a double Andersen awning window below.

When I get a picture of the completed project I will post that as well. Again, thanks for your help! Jim, glad I could help. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Enjoy the rest of your day. The insulated glass was sealed with Quad Max and came out great; thanks for the recommendation. I spent over hours making a sign out of PVC board and it has garnered many compliments in the last 18 months. Unfortunately, it was vandalized this past week. The perp apparently thrust his whole weight against the sign breaking it in two see photo.

I need a glue with a long working time to get the pieces back together. I intend on pulling the joint together with pocket screws, but it will take two of us working quickly up to a half hour estimated to join the fractured pieces.

I would very much appreciate a recommendation on glue. Alan: The guy did one heck of a job demolishing such a nice sign. Your question is an easy one. One of the best adhesives on the market that has a long cure time while also drying to a hard acrylic finish that has superior strength to the cellular PVC is TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives.

The adhesive is a two component solvent and silicone free structural methyl methacrylate or MMA. Thus, it requires a caulking tube that will support two components if using the ml tubes or a smaller two component gun you can get at Grainger if using the 50 ml tube. I would read their technical data sheets on their website to determine which one is right for your application. Good luck with the repair.

I already put up this PVC product as casing, and i did not realize that you cannot paint it a dark color. I absolutely MUST paint it. Can anyone please give me advice as to what type of primer and what type of paint to use? I realize i lose the warranty, but i still must do it. Your advice of the best choice under these conditions would be much appreciated!!! Good evening Jenice. My typical questions are maximum length of trim run, direction trim faces, temperature at which trim was installed, min and max exposure temperatures where the trim was installed, paint color, LRV if available, and fastener being used.

Hopefully you used a strong fastener min. Finally, how the trim performs on the wall will depend on the temperature of the trim when it was installed, what direction the trim faces N, S, E, W , and the length of the trim run. The lower the installation temperature the more chance the trim will buckle as it expands linearly.

I hope you find this information of value. Hi John, Is it permissible to use Versatex sheets to fabricate outdoor cabinets for summer kitchens? The short answer is yes. The columns are raised panels made of cellular PVC boards.

The raised panels, custom mouldings and cabinetry were all fabricated by a local OEM. The soffit and fascia are also cellular PVC trim. All trim was secured with Cortex screws and plugs.

What we have found is you can machine Cellular PVC just like plywood or solid wood. Pocket screws, dowels, and screwing thru sides all work well with Cellular PVC. However when preparing parts on a CNC router you have to use the proper bits. O-Flutes come in many sizes. These bits allow for quick chip removal, which is key to minimizing heat build up in the cellular PVC.

Basically you can use Cellular PVC for anything you can do in wood. Im interested in using the pvc trim board at the corner of a home where the wood siding on each side stops.

Will it work or look right? Good evening Bryan. There are three ways to handle the corners on this project you can make your own corners from two boards, you can v-groove and fold a piece of Trimboard to create an outside corner, or you can buy a fabricated corner from a PVC trim and sheet manufacturer.

This is wood siding and trim. I wanted to know could i use the pvc trim boards to replace the wood, because of insects and wood peckers creating holes in the trim.

Yes you can use cellular PVC trim to replace the wood trim on this home. It will not rot and will prevent insect and woodpecker damage. It can also be painted if necessary. If you plan to replace the wood trim with cellular PVC trim, and prefer not to paint it, please use screws and plugs. There is no nail hole filler or putty that is a good color match to cellular PVC trim. I used a white pvc window flashing trim material on the 1st phase of our home reno.

I recently received a new batch of the same product to use on the next phase. Its the same manufacturer, same material. With the new batch, if left out of the box for as little as 24 hours, it turns from white to grey. I intend to approach the manufacturer for replacement, but problem is I see some that I already installed is greying. What is happening here i am assuming some UV damage and what is the best way to treat the pieces I have put on that are too difficult now to remove.

I have never heard of SureSill window flashing. Why it has turned grey after only 24 hours of outdoor exposure is a mystery to me. Typical PVC building products that suffer UV damage will turn yellow mild degradation , orange serious degradation or brown total degradation. I have never seen any PVC building product, including vinyl siding and vinyl windows turn grey due to over-exposure to the sun.

If I were you I would ask the manufacturer what happened. Hi John, Nice informative site. My questions are: Does this all sound ok? Hi Joe: Your installation technique is very good.

A solvent based adhesive will breakdown the PVC and create a strong chemical bond. When using an adhesive apply it to only one of the edges you plan to bond not both of them. You want a good board to board bond. An occasional 6d ss finish nail will add the needed pressure at the glue line producing a strong bonded joint. As for biscuits, there not necessary.

However, if you plan to use them be sure to use a biscuit compatible with PVC. One last comment, if the post you are wrapping is a wet pressure treated allow ample room for any twisting of the post. Otherwise there is a good chance you will split open one or more of the joints. To avoid this take the necessary steps to make sure the post is semi dry before wrapping.

Hi John, I am working with pvc for the first time. Before finding this site I wrapped an existing structure made of cedar with pvc. I used Loctite extreme to bond to both the painted cedar and other parts made of the pvc molding, on some trim I used special screws for pvc but not the mfg listed here. Will this be adequate? I also started to make a gate by routing the pvc, I did not realize that the cells would be exposed.

How can I close the cells so the trim will not get dirty? I have attached a couple of pictures. Thanks for your assistance, I wish I would have found this site earlier. Assuming this is true they are MS Silicones that cure from the humidity in the air.

These products are relatively new to the market so long term performance data is not available. They have also been in the market for years. The Liquid Nail products may not cure as fast but we discount that as a condition of use. What we do know is they have 2 to 3 times the shelf life than a plastic adhesive tube. So be sure to check this before buying. As for fasteners, if you have one you like great.

Starborn offers a stainless steel screw. Finally, once you cut into cellular PVC you expose the core. The core is nothing more than an impervious honeycomb. However, it is susceptible to picking up dirt. I like to use a grit first before stepping down to To minimize the cells even further take Acetone and a clean white rag and liberally apply it to the sanded surfaces.

I hope you found the information helpful. Attached is an example of a large gate produced from cellular PVC. I plan to attached one or two more if the site allows me. Hi John, Here are a couple of pics.

Thanks for your help. I would love to continue the paneling around the entire walk in shower. Would it be possible to use WP4 for this level of water and humidity? Good evening Becky. Versatex can be used in areas with high moisture content and high humidity without an issue. In fact, you can place cellular PVC in water without fear of rotting or water absorption. The only concern I have and the one you need to consider is the surface durability of the Versatex WP Most bathrooms are created from ceramic tile, stone, etc.

I just wanted to make you aware of my concern. I am not sure if the steam would be hot enough. Thanks in advance for your help. It is possible to bend a PVC Brick Mould into a semi-circle using a steam box provided you can elevate the temperature of the brick mould to F. The use of an infra-red thermometer can help you determine the core temperature of your cellular PVC moulding.

Bending is as much an art as it is a science. Other equipment used to elevate the temperature of cellular PVC trim for thermo-forming includes a wall paper steamer with a piece of PVC pipe and two pipe caps and a pair of torpedo heaters and length of insulated duct pipe.

If you prefer to have a professional thermo-form it, ask you local dealer if they have heat bend capabilities. Another option is OMC Arch trim.

Google the name. The company has a long history and success with hear bending cellular PVC trim and mouldings. They can ship your thermo-formed piece to anywhere in the US. Let me know if you have any other questions. I used versatex for the replacement blocks.

I see that you recommend a few solvent based caulk options. I am wondering if there are any caulk options that would not need to be painted and will not collect dust. I would like to take advantage of not needing to paint the windows or the trim, and use a caulk that will look good without painting. Google NPC Sealant for their contact information. There product is formulated to be UV resistant. You might want to check the Quad Max or Weathermaster sealants to see if they are less tacky.

Your advice about any precautions we should take to make this work will be greatly appreciated. The product has too much flexibility. The concern is not expansion or contraction but the sagging of the beadboard between the joists or supports. Expansion and contraction is a function of length, the difference between the install temperature and the min.

Thus, the boards only move along the length not the width. One way of possibly resolving this issue is to attach an underlayment to the joists before installing your beadboard planks. You are the best, John! Thanks again. Furring strips will definitely help. I just want to say how glad I am that I stumbled across this web site! It has been unbelievably helpful in so many ways!!! Now, any suggestions as to what would look good on this house?

The easiest way to locate them is to scroll to the bottom of the home page and click on Drawing in the site map. You have a very unique home with what appears to be brick, siding and even some board and batten on the porch.

The partial bay window to the left is interesting. Now sure why the house was designed with a portion of the window missing. From purely a PVC trim perspective, you could 1 add a small gable end bracket, 2 upgrade the columns with a cellular PVC column wrap in either a smooth or raised panel look, along with accent wraps and moulding trim kits to dress up the top and bottom of the column wraps, 3 create a raised or recessed panel look on the bottom of the partial bay window using a cellular PVC sheet and some mouldings, and 4 add a PVC railing system between the porch columns.

Good luck with your project and thank you for your support of cellular PVC trim. What do you recommend for a paintable caulking for the pvc! Thank u! In Charlton mass area!! Good evening John. The best sealants for use with cellular PVC are either ones with solvent as a component of the sealant or ones that have a polyurethane base. Since they contain solvent they must be fully cured before painting. Typically 24 hours before painting. The next best are polyurethane sealants.

Acrylic paints with polyurethane are also excellent coatings that provide super adhesion when compared to just straight acrylic paints. Finally, if you want a good paintable sealant use Quad Max or Weather Master. They are both paintable within one hour of application. I hope you find this information of help. Enjoy the rest of your weekend. Hello, We sometimes rout into the surface of Versatex with our cnc machine to create raised panel, or shaker style exterior shutters.

As a result, the open cells and the milling marks tend to telegraph through the paint. Is there something that we can perhaps trowel over the surface and then sand smooth before paint, or between paint and primer? The first, which I think is the best because it can be sprayed on, is 2 coats of Valspar Bonding primer. One other fabrication tip. We have a small Weinig moulder. To minimize the dust building up on the tooling and on the operators clothes, we keep spray cans of Static Guard at the work center.

We have also placed an air line into the cabinet of the Weinig with multiple flex nozzles positioned at the tooling to move the dust away from the tooling and into the dust collection system. Hope you find this information of help with your Versatex fabrication projects. I am planning to use PVC to replace a rotted window sill and window trim.

I would like not to paint the PVC when finished. I intend to fasten the trim to the house with Cortex screws. I am not sure if I need to actually fasten the PVC sill itself — I may just wedge it in and let the wedges and trim hold it in place.

The window is a standard size of about 36 inch by 30 inch so thermal expansion is probably not an issue. Do I still need to leave gaps where the PVC meets? I would like to use a single product, if possible. First can I get by with a sealant, rather than adhesive? Is caulk and sealant the same thing? I want a watertight seal to protect the wood window and OSB to which the trim attaches. Where the inner edge of the PVC trim meets the wooden window frame 4.

Where the outer edge of the PVC trim meets the wood siding. The amount of cut edges here is very small — do I need to treat these differently to the PVC surfaces that are not cut? In response to your email. One of the primary factors in the movement of cellular PVC trim is its length.

The other is temperature differential between when you install it and the max and min temperatures it will be exposed to on the wall of the home. One product that acts as both a sealant and an adhesive while providing unmatched flexibility is NPC Solar Seal The product bonds well to PVC and wood, and performs exceptionally well in the field. This only issues are availability in your market and workability.

 
 

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Читать больше it does open correctly are there any splash screens, error messages or other dialogs opening that you need to click away? It sounds to me like something is opening off screen that needs your attention but it is caught between monitors. Hi QPC, Just wondering if you ever fixed this problem. I have installed SketchUp Pro and it will not open if I have my other monitor plugged in. The problem you are посмотреть больше with your displays has been shown to be a graphics card problem.

The integrated Intel graphics card you indicate in your profile is not especially well suited for the task. Correct workflow is to create scenes in SketchUp for the desired views of your model and use those for the viewports in LayOut. If you find later you need to change the camera position, go back to SketchUp and make those changes for the scene being sure to update the scene to reflect the new settings. Save the changes and then update the reference in Sketchup pro 2016 not responding free.

Thanks могу bluetooth for windows 10 free download software вам your reply DaveR. I have just updated my profile info as this was a while адрес страницы on another laptop. I have a new laptop and I think I have sketchup pro 2016 not responding free the sketchup pro 2016 not responding free info on regarding my graphics card. Would your comment still be the same with this new info? When you installed SketchUp did you right click on the downloaded installer and select Run as administrator?

Running SU as an admin is not a good idea. But what he asked was did you right click on the install. If not do so now and select Repair when the option is given.

So I will uninstall sketchup and reinstall as Run as Administrator? No need to uninstall. Just find the installer file in your Sketchup pro 2016 not responding free folder or download it againright click on it and choose Run as administrator. Choose Repair. How are you connecting your second monitor? What sketchup pro 2016 not responding free of monitor?

People have had many sorts of trouble especially with external docks. Some dock models refuse to use your Nvidia card. Others have trouble with OpenGL or 4K monitors and their connectors.

At work, now, I am using my second dock, with several driver and firmware upgrades and switching connections to USB-C cables, and it finally works somewhat but not perfectly. Just an FYI. I also must start SketchUp on the internal display with it set as the Win10 primary display. The desktop is extended over onto an external HP 25bw monitor.

Both the internal and external displays have the same native x resolution. Any attempts to have SketchUp open and run on the external monitor leads to non-usability. It acts as though it cannot understand where the mouse clicks. Tray panels not usable, etc. Lock ups. Must close with Task Manager. I just had to wipe out registry settings for all versions, reinstall, and just have them … sketchup pro 2016 not responding free on the internal notebook display.

I wonder if this is limited to the specific Nvidia card types. HDMI cable. I thought foregoing an adapter from MiniDP to one of the given ports would just complicate the connection. Of course. So far we seem to know that. Is there other OpenGL software that could be tested? I am somewhat skeptical of the OpenGL tests available online. SketchUp seems to be somewhat pickier than for instance Archicad but the problems I encounter with both seem to be similar. Googling, I find that people, not very many, have been having this problem with several apps photoshop, 3DS Max… over the years.

Some could solve адрес by disabling нажмите для деталей Aero theme in Windows 7, but the common denominator was connecting the external monitor via HDMI… Go figure.

I have DesignSpark Mechanical 4 installed. It allows the user to choose what sketchup pro 2016 not responding free uses for the model renderer.

I just left it set to Direct3D11, as installed. NET framework applications. I just found a weird thing. Since then I have always used only the Windows display settings and only used the Nvidia control panel for my application settings.

As for the locking up, very likely this is due to the graphics card, too. Thanks for updating it. So far we seem to know that the problem persists with different SketchUp versions SketchUp is known to work for many users on external monitors. Might also be BIOS. So, something is not quite kosher.

 

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My question is if this is acceptable or do i need a voltage regulator to keep it around the 12v area or even lower? I have a project on the old computer with Win XP. After the driver is installed, the data is transmitted correctly from Pro Micro to the serial port that can be seen using HyperTerminal. However, the MSCOMM does not generate an event to obtain a character in the input buffer and my software is not receiving data. With other types of Arduino does not have these problems.

I have 2 that suddenly will not work. The first one: when plugged into the computer the red led turns on, but that is it. No board is seen by the computer tested with 3 computers and 2 different cables Second one: when plugged into the computer the red yellow and green led turn on solid.

Nothing is seen by the computers. Search for hardware does not help Using arduino ide 1. Sorry, because of the size we left it off, but we do break out the reset pin, so you can add your own.

Time to design a case for my project, and it would save me some serious time. Am I crazy? I usually print “Setup complete” at the end of my setup function, but even when I try and hold the program up until a serial connection is open while! Printing within the loop works just fine And the same code works just fine on a Mega Even if I manually reset the PM and keep the serial port open I don’t see any printing.

Is anybody else seeing this or know how to fix this? According to what you’re saying, the code should be correct as long as you aren’t putting the while loop in parenthesis. Did you double check to make sure you’ve selected “Leonardo” in the IDE?

No matter what I do add delays, print multiple items, etc it seems to refuse to print during setup. Switched computers and it works just fine now. Hi, does someone know hor to use ips with this board? I cannot find a hookup guide. The serial monitor will send data but will not receive! A work around is to use a third party terminal.

I am using putty. It’s a bit of a PITA as you have to manually exit the terminal to release the com port for uploading. But it is better than staring at the serial monitor and wondering what is going on.

Which is it? Technically the ISP is on the board, in fact we add the bootloader to the finished board. Unfortunately the board does have room for the nice 2×3 header configuration, but the pins are all there. Are you guys ever going to get the drivers for this signed? I know that Arduino was able to get them signed for the Leonardo. There’s nothing built into the board to monitor battery voltage, but you could build a voltage divider out of two 10k resistors.

Then your code can monitor the battery voltage and let you know when the battery is getting low. Which pins should be substituted for these? I love this little board It would be nice if SF could used vias as the usb footprint pads for added strength which is how we do it where i work for heavy use applications.

And I can treat it as such within Windows for the purpose of data exchange as opposed to just programming? That depends.

First current isn’t fed, its pulled, meaning it doesn’t matter the rating on the source, it matters how much you are trying to pull. There are many different limits on different parts of the board. Can this operate as a HID device? Thanks for your help.

Yes and yes. It can do HID – check out this example in the tutorial. Check out this example , you’ll need to Serial1. The features of this board are great! However, the usb port snapped off after only a couple days of light usage.

I got a second board and covered the terminals in epoxy and under the board where the little plastic alignment posts go through the board. Hopefully this will extend the life of the connector to survive my development phase.

If this only used through-hole solder joints for the usb port it would be perfect! I had a lot of trouble getting this to accept code. Not sure why, since my Arduino Uno works fine. I’m running Fedora 19 Linux , and Arduino 1. Even after reinstalling the bootloader it was pretty hit and miss. A couple tips that I didn’t see mentioned, but that could be helpful:. Hi, keep in mind these boards are very different than the Uno and so the upload process is different.

You do need to make sure you have the correct board files downloaded and installed as well as the correct drivers installed on Windows.

If you still have questions feel free to email techsupport sparkfun. Also, as for the pin names, the full name is actual D0, D1, etc. But on the Pro Micro they are shortened for space issues. Of course it does. The new device should show up in device manager with the orange triangle as the pro micro. Install the driver as described in the tutorial for windows installation for this new device that showed up. I had to reset the board a couple of times during navigation to the driver and then just as I was clicking the button to install the driver.

It finished before I heard the sound signalling removal of a device. Upload sketches to the regular com port that is under device manager, and during upload the pro micro will show up briefly in device manager with the driver you just installed, and disappear, and the sketch should work. Thanks to Matthew Ford! Windows 8. What to do? Thanks a lot! Found it: you need to reboot to special mode where driver signing is disabled.

On the 5V version, the USB power is shorted to the regulated 5V power, so it’s hard to say how much of each. I took the guesswork out by removing the USB power fuse labeled “F” on my board , which means the board can only get power from the RAW pin via the regulator.

It might be that I am connecting it wrong, but I can’t seem to fine any support on the topic. So if anyone knows how to control the pro micro through any type of Bluetooth module, advice is greatly appreciated! You can either use any digital pin through SoftwareSerial or pin 0 and 1 Rx and Tx through hardware Serial. Analog pins read cts when 5V is applied. However, the VCC pin is 3.

I don’t quite understand how that is possible. Any suggestions? Can this be powered using a 9 volt battery thru a breadboard? If not, how can this be wirelessly powered? I tried using 4 AAAs in a battery pack but the robot didn’t turn on.

Sorry for my juvenile questions, I’m new at this. I have the 5v version. Sure it can! Check out this section of the hookup guide for more details. I am having some trouble with uploading sketches to my Pro Micro 5V.

Any ideas? Help please. See the comment at the top about windows 8, that is what I had to do to get any progress in windows. What version of Arduino IDE are you running? The Pro Micro only works right on some versions. Try using version 1. Hey there. I am a little confused. I developed HID keyboard using example source. However, BIOS does not work on the problem. Mac, Windows in normal operation. Perfect form factor for cool little LED projects.

It’s possible to revive it — just takes some perfect timing and patience. You’ll need to get the Pro Micro into bootloader mode, and try uploading a 5V-compiled sketch before it exits. Hmm, I’ve nailed the timing three times now after dozens of failed attempts. Any advice? Huh, that’s worked for me in the past. I’m not sure what else it could be.

It might be best to contact tech support at this point. Sorry for the confusion, but is this board stand-alone, or do I still need to hook it up to an Arduino? If it isn’t stand alone, does anybody know of a similar HID board that is?

Thanks, that’s actually where I found this, but being new I thought that “Arduino-Compatible” meant that it was meant to interface with it. Have you guys ever stated what the part number or specs are for the diode on the USB input? Sorry it’s not more explicitly stated in the schematic. Hi guys! I’m trying to find out some pins to work with Thanks in advance for any clarification! Cheers, Rene. It did the job until the USB port came off the board.

It didn’t take much pressure at all, I just barely caught the cord on something at the wrong angle, and it popped right off. I ordered another, and this time I’ll be potting the whole thing in epoxy after I solder on the headers. Edit: I bumped it up by 1 star after some reconsideration. I ended up patching into the resistors on my broken one. Just be aware that if you are going to be using this in a long term situation, you should either carefully pot the usb connector in epoxy, or use a housing of some kind that provides support to the connector.

Kansukee replied on September 11, Sorry about the issues with the USB port on the board. Have you contacted our technical support team at techsupport sparkfun. I had a great deal of difficulty getting a sketch uploaded.

The tweaking you have to do to the IDE is pretty straight forward and well documented thanks Sparkfun! I ended up not using the Micro because it was too frustrating to work with when I have other things to troubleshoot. Ended up using a Nano from one of my other projects. The surface mount USB connector broke off. If there were through holes adjacent to the connector, I could run a wire over the top for better support.

I’m using this and the 3. They both work just fine; however, be careful when programming to have BOTH the board and processor set correctly under the Arduino Tools menu. My very first use of one of these was with the wrong processor I had a 3. Admittedly, it was my bad, but it would be nice if Arduino and the bootloader could handshake to verify that the correct settings were used and at least post a warning to the user. ROB replied on November 14, You’re right, care definitely needs to be taken to make sure that both Board and Processor are set correctly.

There are ways to un-brick the unit, though they can take some time and effort. Happy Hacking! I am a retired engineer and have been out of the software business for almost 10 years. I purchased the Pro Micro after reading up on the Arduino products and capabilities. I have been playing with the Pro Micro for about a week and have two projects well along in the design cycle. I really appreciate how easy it is to prototype with the Pro Micro and it has some very nice features.

The Arduino IDE is a very nice way to develop software too! Sparkfun has some excellent documentation and examples. This has really helped the process of getting back into programming.

Thank you Sparkfun! Only drawback is no onboard reset button. Documentation on this product as far as startup drivers etc is easily accessible. Overall great product. My project uses a small C program to communicate over serial with the Arduino which drives the pixels. I wanted something small and this was the only Arduino I could find to fit the bill. The trinket doesn’t have serial and the pro mini would tie up my programmer.

That being said, I have had some issues with this showing up in the device manager and for that reason I don’t think I would have this as my only arduino. I think your best bet would be to prototype with something like a RedBoard and port your over to this little guy.

If I have another project that needs serial communication or USB power I would definitely use one of these. Otherwise I would probably go with a Pro Mini if I needed a small dedicated arduino to stick in a project. I never figured out how to make it work with the Arduino IDE.

Don’t know why. I gave up and used a ProMini instead. Single T replied on March 30, Be sure to follow along in the Hookup Guide.

There is an explanation of how to install on Windows, Mac and Linux. This board does require some extra steps compared to the Pro Mini. The Pro Micro is too finicky. At some point you will mess up a setting in the Arduino IDE. With many other boards that’s not a problem and can be easily fixed.

Not so with the Pro Micro. The bootloader is configured to get out of the way quickly, and if you program the board incorrectly, you must perform magic tricks to get the board back to life. I played with mine for about 20 minutes, and for some reason the Arduino IDE decided to change to the 3. Programming the 5v board using the configuration for the 3. Sparkfun’s website describes the magic tricks you must perform, but after 20 minutes I said the heck with it.

I tossed it in the trash and ordered a Pro Mini instead. I’d rather spend my time doing something else. Just needed it to be a simple LED controller for my computer and it has been nothing but wonderful! Micro usb is a huge plus for powering projects with rechargeable cell phone power supplies. Built in ftdi to serial interface means you can power and configure with one standard cable. I only use SparkFun’s arduino clones for this reason.

Only had a little trouble connecting it to my laptop. Had to reset it twice, then upload a sketch within 8 seconds to connect it to my laptop.

When I had that figured out, everything worked without problems. It’s “solid” in terms of reliability, small, economical, and with onboard USB. I fabricate my device with the Pro Micro. I liked the smaller size. The code was of course the same and performance was the same.

I use these little arduino boards for all kinds of stuff The small footprint and on-board USB make it a breeze to use for rapid prototyping. I’ve been helping my teenage daughter last few weeks putting together a school project for automated indoor pot plant watering, using a sparkfun soil moisture detector.

Getting power consumption down as low as possible has been a challenge, but we have had reasonable success. We drive it off a small garden light solar cell and one AA rechargeable battery via a Pololu boost regulator.

I took off the power LED resistor and bypass the input regulator; with the Pro Micro asleep and the boost regulator shut down it consumes very little current. The official safe operating area at 16MHz is down to 4. A number of gotchas which took some time to figure out Nearly always have to load sketches via the double reset technique to use the bootloader mode; it is a challenge to get the upload timing right since the bootloader mode only gives you an 8 second window.

The Arduino digitalPinToInterrupt pin function does not map to the correct interrupt number using the pin number as printed on the silkscreen; I had to go by the sparkfun documentation instead. Just started using this board and was happy to get successfully through all the driver loops and uploading the first sketch. Was ready to move a project from a larger prototype board to this little guy. So while running, arduino can’t talk to this board, you need to double short the reset pin, and you get 8 seconds to load a new sketch before the current one starts running.

Who made that poor choice? My hobby of electroherbalism needs specialized experimental instruments, and this module is the only one that works for most of my projects. For my current instrument design and build, some essential qualities are the precision tone frequencies – accurate to 1 Hz at least to 5, Hz – as compared to an Arduino Uno which produces, for example, Hz when a frequency of Hz is specified in tone, quite unusable.

And the 5 V interface is perfect for matching with the low cost “LCD Key” common interface which provides both LCD and adequate pushbuttons for my instrument’s human interface control. Took a while to download my program, kind of frustrating but eventually I got my timing right. It does do what I programmed it to do – using it with a ZX gesture sensor to act as a mini-keyboard-like input to a Rpi for a magic mirror project. Was major pain getting the drivers set up so I could download a sketch.

SparkFun warns that the USB can be difficult. I almost gave up. Still cannot get Serial Port Com to operate. USB is finally working enough for my needs. But board is amazingly small and fits in my small enclosure with a OLED. I would not have used the product had I known the boot loader would be so much trouble.

Come on Sparkfun, put a few more debug hours in! Now that I have it up and running, this has been a little champ. Initially, though, it took a bit to get there. First I had to figure out where to get the board package from and how to install it in the Arduino IDE.

It’s really not that hard to do but without decent directions, I had to fumble my way through. My bad! Fortunately, it wasn’t hard to find instructions on how to unbrick it. Apparently, this mistake is a common one. But with those “preliminaries” out of the way, it’s been working well.

If you need an Arduino in a tight package, this product is worth your consideration. No stranger to Arduinos, so knew what I was in for – works great for my project and am very satisfied. The ability to upload sketches by USB without the external stuff is great, and the voltage regulator seems to be able to handle what I’m sure is abuse on my part long story. I’m a Linux user Ubuntu , and followed the setup tutorials provided on the SparkFun website, but couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t upload a sketch.

Eventually found that I needed to add the following to my udev config:. I thought I could just use software I’d been using with the mini pro! Now I am wiser but will likely put the board in the bin! Kansukee replied on April 11, Sorry to hear about the issues with the pro micro.

Have you contacted our technical support department techsupport sparkfun. They might be able to help you get your setup working if you’re having issues. We are building a little robot and this little guy exceeded our expectatives. I was able to hook it up with the Dual Motor Driver TBFNG breakout and control DC motors, but we ended controlling 1 servo and 2 continous rotating “servos” and we didn’t had any issue. I changed my review to 2 stars because it does what I purchased it for. However, I had to read through pages of info before I find out the pin mislabeling and the bootloader issues.

That should be 1 on the hookup guide. This is an awesome little board for embedding in projects. I like to develop and real-world test with this board, and then use the even less expensive Pro Mini when I have my code done and need to make more devices.

For anything that might need code adjustments, or computer interfacing, I use this board with it’s easy micro USB port. Kansukee replied on July 21, Have you contacted our technical support team techsupport sparkfun. This board is incredibly small and light weight. Works perfectly with Arduino IDE. You will need a micro USB cable to work with this board, not included. Very handy for adding a little intelligence to a bread-boarded circuit.

I keep several around at all times. Was a pain in the butt to finally get working Had to “reset” several time So far so good but the initial issues made me think I would have to trash the whole thing.

WAY too much hassle Next project will not include this device I’d rather use a nano than have to go through the pains of reset and problems I faced.

Pro Micro The ‘double reset’ in the bootloader let me easily recover a mistake made in the code by giving me an 8 second window for loading new code rather than 0. The version of the Pro Micro is more-or-less a minimalist implementation of a Leonardo, and is suitable for use as an embedded controller in applications where retaining the potential to support USB connectivity e. If I could change anything about it, I would include a simple option to disable the PWR LED to reduce the current draw when operating from an external battery source.

I had no issues getting it to work with the Arduino 1. This is especially true if you accidentally configured the IDE for a 3. I’ve been tempted by Arduino before but this is my first purchase. I bought this to automate some repetitive tasks that I perform at work, and half expected it to sit in a drawer, but was surprised at how quickly I was able to emulate a keyboard and mouse. In about thirty minutes I had a working prototype. I bought the “Micro” by mistake.

I thought I was buying my fourth “Mini. Not a big deal, I was able to recover the bootloader; but overall, it was a negative experience. In the end, the Micro did not have the resources for my project. So I put it on a shelf and ordered another Mini. Maybe I’ll find a use for the Micro in the future. Just be sure to get the instructions on how to obtain the libraries for the Arduino IDE. They can be found in the Hookup Guide in the Documents section.

This little guys packs a serious punch, I’ve used the Pro Micro’s for many projects already, from controlling LED’s, motors, GPS receivers, data loggers, keyboard emulators. You can’t beat the postage stamp size with USB connectivity and easy to solder header pinout.

You just gotta love the Pro Micro, and comes in 5V and 3V flavors as well. I’ll be ordering another bunch of them soon. As I said, great prototyping board on your way to a custom PCB board. The Pro Micro is one of the most useful small machines around.

Fits in at any place where control functionality is needed; in-system-programming reprogramming, repair is easy via the USB interface and the Arduino IDE the mobile phone charger cable is always at hand at every place After installing the correct drivers for the computer and for the Arduino IDE, the board works as expected. I did get into a weird situation where I could not program the board.

I was forced to use “double tap reset” to program in a simple program before it behaved properly when programming the board. Not sure what happened there, but the backdoor method worked.

This does simplify designs where you want a small Arduino with coms to the outside world and not have to deal with FTDI serial cables and the like. Flashed some code and within 2 min it was fried. Probably my fault, set it down on a cluttered desk.

I definitely set a personal record for frying an Arduino. For prototyping and learning, a full size board and breadboard are the way to go. When you’re ready to lock in your design, this Pro Micro can’t be beat. A bit difficult to set up in Arduino Studio since it’s a clone, but after that you’re in the clear. Will buy again. It works great and is very compact. The only thing I wish it had were some holes for mounting it to a chassis.

Sometimes it’s a tough choice between this and the Pro Mini. If you would just add pads for I2C pullups, and a reset button if there’s room, it would be better than the Mini. Otherwise it’s a great product. But once my project is out of the very early stages of prototyping, I need something smaller. I’ve used these in a couple projects. It is a bit more expensive than some even more stripped down offerings.

However, it includes the programmer and a USB port on the board! That is really convenient. For me that is convenience is super important. I have limited time to spend on my many electronics projects, and having the programmer ready to go is a major time saver. I bricked one of these because I overlooked this step once. But for me, that isn’t a show stopper. Have you ever wanted to build your own VR tools? I needed a device that I could install in a headset to read sensors and track the position and orientation of my goggles.

This little device has that capability and also connects to your PC as a Human Interface Device, allowing me to place sensors in the helmet and send the results back as joystick axes and button presses. A Power Wheels conversion. Braking resistors, a relay, 24v battery, W brushed DC motor controller with thumb throttle. Programming basically went like make some variables for relay position, 5v in from thumb throttle reading, 5v out for motor controller, loop went, if throttle is above a threshold, flip relay on, like read throttle, if that number is higher, wait 10ms, increment by one, if lower wait 10ms de-increment by 3, if below threshold, de-energize motor, wait 10ms, flip relay off braking resistors slow the power wheels.

I got it working, project complete and I am happy with it. Goes a good jogging speed now. I did have an issue with the USB becoming detached from the board. I wanted to change the code some more, but I will likely need to do some very fine soldering and just use wires soldered to the board. When uploading to the board, make sure the correct version 5v vs 3v is selected. I am using this board strictly for a USB interface. So far it has not failed.

I tried several of the cheaper boards and they either failed within a few days or didn’t work at all. Time will tell with the ones from sparkfun. I was looking for a small form factor solution for a keyboard emulator which would help me by supplying log-in information and access codes I am having to type over and over dozens of times a day. This unit combined with the SparkFun Infrared Control Kit, allows me to quickly enter the information with one button.

Since the codes are tied to buttons on the remote, as long as I take the remote with me when I go get coffee, I don’t worry about anyone using the ProMicro for bad intentions.

This little board is great. I used it to create a custom joystick controller, and it worked perfectly. I honestly should have used a larger board, since I ran out of usable pins, however even with the limited IO compared to larger boards, you can do a lot with this! I had one before and broke the USB off. This time I know to be careful and only touch it to plug in the USB cable. I had no problems getting my code loaded.

I’m running a chromebook and the Arduino IDE works fine on it. When loading code, it shows up in the USB manager as a Pro Micro 5V, then the code loads and when done loading, it shows as a Leonardo. I’ve tried several sketches and no problems loading.

My only concern is maybe I should run this sensor on 3. I own several of them, they are a great small platform for small projects. Have used several of them in various projects with great results. But lately they lock up and will not accept the USB.

The last batch of them I ordered locked up first rattle out of the box. This happened with 3 different computers and 4 different USB cables Locked up 3 of the ones I had on hand, and 4 of the 6 I ordered. I tried the trouble shooting guide method to no avail. Had to go to a Arduino Micro just to finish the bread boarded project, so I can design a PCB based on the final circuit design. Would love to use a Pro Micro, but cant get them to work. May have to go with a Arduino Nano for a final build.

Will return the locked ones when I have the time to pack them up and get to the PO. These little boards have done everything I have needed them to and are packed with features. It is the best means of securing cellular PVC trim to the frame of a home, it gives you the best overall aesthetic appearance, and provides the greatest holding power.

We have specific cases where this system survived hurricane Sandy without the trim pulling away from the home or becoming lose from the hurricanes negative wind pressure.

Plus you never have to worry about the screw holes or the color of the plugs since they are made from the same material as your trimboards. Good luck with your project. We have indoor support columns with PVC wraps. After much abuse from the little ones in the house, the paint is chipping away on the endcaps. It appears as if, when they were installed, there is a thin layer of drywall or some filler covering the cap and pole under the paint which will need filled in before I repaint them.

Is there a good material to use for this? There are several filler and bonding materials compatible with cellular PVC. It is a two part epoxy that cures to a hardness equivalent to an acrylic sheet. It has exceptional bond strength to cellular PVC and comes in white. If all you are looking for is a filler that will bond to cellular PVC but not have the hardness or durability of TrimWelder, you can use just about any vinyl spackling sold by your local lumber dealer.

Pace, We have been asked to look at fixing some long runs of pvc fascia which split last winter. They actually sheered across the width, not at a joint, due to the cold. In the summer the jagged cracks all but close. However, as the temperature goes down the gaps increase. We have emailed azek and kleer for advice. They suggested adding screws and caulking the joints with a pvc joint caulk. We did both but with no real remedy. Short of removing the entire fascia, is there a fix?

Does that seem like it might work? Thanks for the help. To protect the joints on the top our sub kitchen sink cabinet doors, we need to install a drip edge below the sink. Wood is not a good choice…. I believe pvc board is the way to go. The board will have rounded edges and perhaps decorative routing. What do you recommend to ensure water will not raise the paint.

If my assumption is correct, here is how I would prepare the PVC trim piece for painting. To minimize the size of the cells for painting, I would sand the trim piece after it has been routed with grit sand paper. I would then blow off any residual dust on the routed piece and wipe it down with a wet rag. This should give you a very smooth finish after painting. Paint adhesion to PVC, when tested in accordance with ASTM test protocol, is excellent and equivalent to that of paint on a pine board.

Your issue will not be with the substrate but the paint. The paint manufacturer needs to specify a paint that will perform in a high moisture environment.

If such a paint exists you should not have any paint adhesion issues. We sometimes make one piece CNC routed exterior shutters from Versatex. Can these shutters be painted dark colours since they are basically free-standing isolated units?

Why is it suggested that Versatex not be painted dark colours? Millwork shops and fabricators across the US have made one piece shutters and painted them dark colors with much success. Shutters made from multiple pieces have a tendency to open at the seams if painted certain dark colors like Black, Forest Green or Cocoa Brown. The reasons dark shutter perform even when painted a dark color are because they are free standing, as you mentioned, and also the fact they are not very long or tall.

All cellular PVC trim producers do not recommend they be painted dark colors. The reasons we do not recommend Versatex be painted a dark paint color are these: 1 Cellular PVC trim, no matter the manufacturer, has a heat distortion temperature of to F.

This is the temperature where cellular PVC begins to lose some of its physical properties. If you use an embossed or textured finish on your PVC trim board the pattern may disappear when the board reaches the heat distortion temperature. The amount of expansion or contraction of cellular PVC trim is directly proportional to the length of the board and the difference between the install temperature and the max and min temperatures the project will reach after installation.

It is best to try to minimize the max. Painting the board a dark color makes it more susceptible to excessive expansion and potential buckling on the wall if it is a long run of trim i. In my opinion a long run is 3 or more boards. John, I am replacing some wood posts and bottom wood ledge on my second story balcony due to dry rot.

The balcony has glass panels. Would like to use PVC molding if at all possible due to the non-dry rot capability. Is it appropriate to use a air nail gun to fasten the PVC molding to the wood post?

If so, is there a max gauge I should use? Am afraid the gluing the molding to the posts and ledge will not be sturdy enough to hold the glass securely and screws may be too big. Also, since the posts are white and I may have to paint the moldings to match, what paint should I use and what type of sealant should I use for the 90 degree seams in the corners? Thanks for any advise. Bille: Per your questions, yes it is appropriate to use an air nail gun to fasten the PVC moulding to the wood post.

Use an 18 gage or 16 gage trim nail. As for paint use any latex acrylic paint or a latex paint with urethane. There are many more that bond well to PVC trim. Can I use a double sided tape as she does not want to paint or see nail holes? We built a new home in extensively using Azek smooth trim boards throughout the exterior of the house.

We also used the Azek molded trim around windows and sills. The main exterior siding is Hardie Board. We did paint all of the trim. All of the trim and window surrounds are now in pretty bad shape after 6 years with the caulking having cracked and separated on just about every joint. Our builder attempted to use various sealants and bonding products recommended by Azek to fill in the joints several times over but none have held through the winter months.

Our house exterior is now a mess of failed joints. Our builder says that Azek has refused to provide any further assistance other to say that their installation procedures have changed since our house was built and that there is nothing wrong with the product.

Other than replacing all of the exterior trim with another product, is there a something new on the market available that can be applied to the joints that will not crack and pull apart during cold weather months? One aspect of our business that separates us from the competition is our analysis of complementary products to enhance the performance of our trim. I recommend their color which is a match to our trimboard but should also be a close match to your Azek trim.

I live in Pittsburgh and built an outdoor living area with Versatex Trim including the outdoor cabinetry. I used Solar Seal for the joints between our brick home and the trim.

Temperatures reached F last winter and the sealant performed as expected with no cracking or pulling apart at the seams. I recommend you call them to find a local supplier in your area. Their telephone number is You can also e-mail them at npc npcsealants. This article has a lot of good information that would have changed my approach to past PVC projects.

But I still have a few questions, specifically about Versatex products:. I understand that they must be shimmed if using treated lumber due to twisting, so I am asking about untreated lumber.

Sorry for not responding sooner. In response to your questions. You can reinforce the gap between the wrap and the structural post using a dense insulation or even low to medium expansion spray foam insulation. It works well with both treated and untreated posts.

Another way wraps are installed is to firmly attach them to the structural post on the side most likely to receive occasional contact and let the other three sides float.

In my 12 years in this industry, I have never seen an instance of any bleed through the PVC onto the face of the beaded ceiling. See Liquid Nails Sub-Floor spec sheet for further information on the product. Nails and screws might fracture the leg of the Stealth beadboard. The caulk failed after a few years and water leaks in. I recaulked, but the gap is just so large it looks like a long term problem. I carefully cut a piece of PVC board to trim around the windows and wanted to seal it really well to fill the area with the big crack that was previously caulked.

I used a DAP caulk that said was OK with PVC board, but after a month it never cured, so I had to undo a whole days work and pull the boards off and clean up the old wet caulk as well as I could. I was thinking of trying again. Is there a caulk at the Lowes or HD that would bond well to both EIFS stucco and the vinyl window frame where I could have a smaller caulk seam around the window? Thanks for the advice. Check with your local lumber yard. It is solvent based. Can I used this to caulk between PVC board and vinyl window frame.

Thanks much for the suggestion. Hi John, I am building shutters in the Bahamas. I concerned about the warmer temps and the material sagging in temps of degrees. Am I right to be worried? A temperature of degrees F is not a concern. Most cellular PVC has a heat distortion temperature of F which means the product will not lose any of its physical properties until it reaches a temperature equal to or higher than F.

One advantage you have in the Bahamas is the temperature differential high and low is not that great. I hope I have answered your question. Be sure to tell him he was recommended by John Pace at Versatex. I use PVC trim extensively in the new England region and love the products…I have a home in south Florida and would like to replace the wood trim with PVC and have not seen much of the product here.

Also, few dealers to buy from as well. I am wondering if the extreme temps have adverse effects to PVC trim here in the south.?? Also I am designing a pergola and am considering using the INTEX products and again what are the effects here in the south for these products? Thank you for any input…. New England was the first market to embrace cellular PVC trim and have done so in a big way. The southeast including Florida has been slower to convert.

Cellular PVC actually performs better in the south than in the northeast because the high to low temperature swing is much less. Thus, it experiences less expansion and contraction. There are dealers stocking cellular PVC trim in Florida let me know if we can help you identify one. Also Intex is a great Millwork shop. However, there are also PVC Millwork shops throughout Florida fabricating all sorts of gingerbread items.

So in summary, you can use cellular PVC trim in Florida without any concerns or issues. I plan to build curved plywood forms to bend them on. Any advice regarding a heat gun purchase, etc etc? The most important installation issue is bonding and fastening the PVC sheet to the plywood form. The concern here is bowing of the sheet between fasteners when exposed to the UV rays of the sun.

The sun will heat this thin sheet and those areas not properly secured to the plywood frame will bow towards the sun. These thin cellular PVC products are typically used by millwork shops and in the sign and graphics industry. If your interested in a non metal nail for this application Google Raptor Nails. This company makes nylon composite nails and have specific nail guns for installing their strip nails.

We are planning on trimming a bathtub with pvc trim. Our tub is a standard in a raised wood platform. The tub lip buts up against wood.

Questions ; what type of caulking should we use to seal to tub? Should we miter and assemble on floor before installing?. Thank you. If this were an exterior application where we want maximum adhesion and sealant flexibility, we would choose a solvent based sealant. My second choice would be Quad for siding and roofing. Since this is an interior application, yes you can use an adhesive to attach the trim to a wood frame. However, how do you plan to apply enough pressure to the PVC trim to get an adequate bond?

However, that decision is up to you. Since the pvc can be routed like wood. Is this possible using a C. As for sealing the cuts by sanding and rubbing them with acetone, you do get more sealed cuts when following these steps and it is probably the best practice outside of painting. I am planning on replacing some windows on the end of an A-frame house. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. PVC is non load bearing. Is the sash fixed in the frame or is it operable single hung, double hung, casement?

You mentioned the fixed glass that you are replacing with Thermopane units. If the sash is fixed in the window what is the size of the sash?

If the sash is operable I recommend another material or reinforcing the cellular PVC with aluminum. As for sealant, silicone does not bond well to cellular PVC.

You could try modified silicones like Quad Max or even Weather Master. This is a follow-up to my previous question. Your reply was very helpful in giving me a path forward. There are two identical units, and each unit has two upper fixed panes now thermopane , and a double Andersen awning window below.

When I get a picture of the completed project I will post that as well. Again, thanks for your help! Jim, glad I could help. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Enjoy the rest of your day. The insulated glass was sealed with Quad Max and came out great; thanks for the recommendation. I spent over hours making a sign out of PVC board and it has garnered many compliments in the last 18 months. Unfortunately, it was vandalized this past week.

The perp apparently thrust his whole weight against the sign breaking it in two see photo. I need a glue with a long working time to get the pieces back together. I intend on pulling the joint together with pocket screws, but it will take two of us working quickly up to a half hour estimated to join the fractured pieces. I would very much appreciate a recommendation on glue. Alan: The guy did one heck of a job demolishing such a nice sign.

Your question is an easy one. One of the best adhesives on the market that has a long cure time while also drying to a hard acrylic finish that has superior strength to the cellular PVC is TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives. The adhesive is a two component solvent and silicone free structural methyl methacrylate or MMA.

Thus, it requires a caulking tube that will support two components if using the ml tubes or a smaller two component gun you can get at Grainger if using the 50 ml tube. I would read their technical data sheets on their website to determine which one is right for your application. Good luck with the repair. I already put up this PVC product as casing, and i did not realize that you cannot paint it a dark color.

I absolutely MUST paint it. Can anyone please give me advice as to what type of primer and what type of paint to use? I realize i lose the warranty, but i still must do it. Your advice of the best choice under these conditions would be much appreciated!!! Good evening Jenice. My typical questions are maximum length of trim run, direction trim faces, temperature at which trim was installed, min and max exposure temperatures where the trim was installed, paint color, LRV if available, and fastener being used.

Hopefully you used a strong fastener min. Finally, how the trim performs on the wall will depend on the temperature of the trim when it was installed, what direction the trim faces N, S, E, W , and the length of the trim run. The lower the installation temperature the more chance the trim will buckle as it expands linearly. I hope you find this information of value.

Hi John, Is it permissible to use Versatex sheets to fabricate outdoor cabinets for summer kitchens? The short answer is yes. The columns are raised panels made of cellular PVC boards. The raised panels, custom mouldings and cabinetry were all fabricated by a local OEM. The soffit and fascia are also cellular PVC trim. All trim was secured with Cortex screws and plugs.

What we have found is you can machine Cellular PVC just like plywood or solid wood. Pocket screws, dowels, and screwing thru sides all work well with Cellular PVC. However when preparing parts on a CNC router you have to use the proper bits.

O-Flutes come in many sizes. These bits allow for quick chip removal, which is key to minimizing heat build up in the cellular PVC. Basically you can use Cellular PVC for anything you can do in wood. Im interested in using the pvc trim board at the corner of a home where the wood siding on each side stops. Will it work or look right?

Good evening Bryan. There are three ways to handle the corners on this project you can make your own corners from two boards, you can v-groove and fold a piece of Trimboard to create an outside corner, or you can buy a fabricated corner from a PVC trim and sheet manufacturer. This is wood siding and trim. I wanted to know could i use the pvc trim boards to replace the wood, because of insects and wood peckers creating holes in the trim.

Yes you can use cellular PVC trim to replace the wood trim on this home. It will not rot and will prevent insect and woodpecker damage. It can also be painted if necessary. If you plan to replace the wood trim with cellular PVC trim, and prefer not to paint it, please use screws and plugs. There is no nail hole filler or putty that is a good color match to cellular PVC trim. I used a white pvc window flashing trim material on the 1st phase of our home reno.

I recently received a new batch of the same product to use on the next phase. Its the same manufacturer, same material. With the new batch, if left out of the box for as little as 24 hours, it turns from white to grey.

I intend to approach the manufacturer for replacement, but problem is I see some that I already installed is greying. What is happening here i am assuming some UV damage and what is the best way to treat the pieces I have put on that are too difficult now to remove.

I have never heard of SureSill window flashing. Why it has turned grey after only 24 hours of outdoor exposure is a mystery to me. Typical PVC building products that suffer UV damage will turn yellow mild degradation , orange serious degradation or brown total degradation. I have never seen any PVC building product, including vinyl siding and vinyl windows turn grey due to over-exposure to the sun. If I were you I would ask the manufacturer what happened.

Hi John, Nice informative site. My questions are: Does this all sound ok? Hi Joe: Your installation technique is very good. A solvent based adhesive will breakdown the PVC and create a strong chemical bond. When using an adhesive apply it to only one of the edges you plan to bond not both of them. You want a good board to board bond. An occasional 6d ss finish nail will add the needed pressure at the glue line producing a strong bonded joint.

As for biscuits, there not necessary. However, if you plan to use them be sure to use a biscuit compatible with PVC. One last comment, if the post you are wrapping is a wet pressure treated allow ample room for any twisting of the post.

Otherwise there is a good chance you will split open one or more of the joints. To avoid this take the necessary steps to make sure the post is semi dry before wrapping. Hi John, I am working with pvc for the first time. Before finding this site I wrapped an existing structure made of cedar with pvc. I used Loctite extreme to bond to both the painted cedar and other parts made of the pvc molding, on some trim I used special screws for pvc but not the mfg listed here.

Will this be adequate? I also started to make a gate by routing the pvc, I did not realize that the cells would be exposed. How can I close the cells so the trim will not get dirty? I have attached a couple of pictures.

Thanks for your assistance, I wish I would have found this site earlier. Assuming this is true they are MS Silicones that cure from the humidity in the air. These products are relatively new to the market so long term performance data is not available. They have also been in the market for years. The Liquid Nail products may not cure as fast but we discount that as a condition of use.

What we do know is they have 2 to 3 times the shelf life than a plastic adhesive tube. So be sure to check this before buying. As for fasteners, if you have one you like great. Starborn offers a stainless steel screw. Finally, once you cut into cellular PVC you expose the core. The core is nothing more than an impervious honeycomb. However, it is susceptible to picking up dirt.

I like to use a grit first before stepping down to To minimize the cells even further take Acetone and a clean white rag and liberally apply it to the sanded surfaces. I hope you found the information helpful. Attached is an example of a large gate produced from cellular PVC. I plan to attached one or two more if the site allows me. Hi John, Here are a couple of pics. Thanks for your help.

I would love to continue the paneling around the entire walk in shower. Would it be possible to use WP4 for this level of water and humidity? Good evening Becky. Versatex can be used in areas with high moisture content and high humidity without an issue. In fact, you can place cellular PVC in water without fear of rotting or water absorption. The only concern I have and the one you need to consider is the surface durability of the Versatex WP Most bathrooms are created from ceramic tile, stone, etc.

I just wanted to make you aware of my concern. I am not sure if the steam would be hot enough. Thanks in advance for your help. It is possible to bend a PVC Brick Mould into a semi-circle using a steam box provided you can elevate the temperature of the brick mould to F.

The use of an infra-red thermometer can help you determine the core temperature of your cellular PVC moulding. Bending is as much an art as it is a science. Other equipment used to elevate the temperature of cellular PVC trim for thermo-forming includes a wall paper steamer with a piece of PVC pipe and two pipe caps and a pair of torpedo heaters and length of insulated duct pipe.

If you prefer to have a professional thermo-form it, ask you local dealer if they have heat bend capabilities. Another option is OMC Arch trim. Google the name. The company has a long history and success with hear bending cellular PVC trim and mouldings.

They can ship your thermo-formed piece to anywhere in the US. Let me know if you have any other questions. I used versatex for the replacement blocks. I see that you recommend a few solvent based caulk options. I am wondering if there are any caulk options that would not need to be painted and will not collect dust. I would like to take advantage of not needing to paint the windows or the trim, and use a caulk that will look good without painting.

Google NPC Sealant for their contact information. There product is formulated to be UV resistant. You might want to check the Quad Max or Weathermaster sealants to see if they are less tacky.

Your advice about any precautions we should take to make this work will be greatly appreciated. The product has too much flexibility. The concern is not expansion or contraction but the sagging of the beadboard between the joists or supports. Expansion and contraction is a function of length, the difference between the install temperature and the min.

Thus, the boards only move along the length not the width. One way of possibly resolving this issue is to attach an underlayment to the joists before installing your beadboard planks. You are the best, John! Thanks again.

Furring strips will definitely help. I just want to say how glad I am that I stumbled across this web site! It has been unbelievably helpful in so many ways!!! Now, any suggestions as to what would look good on this house? The easiest way to locate them is to scroll to the bottom of the home page and click on Drawing in the site map.

You have a very unique home with what appears to be brick, siding and even some board and batten on the porch. The partial bay window to the left is interesting. Now sure why the house was designed with a portion of the window missing.

From purely a PVC trim perspective, you could 1 add a small gable end bracket, 2 upgrade the columns with a cellular PVC column wrap in either a smooth or raised panel look, along with accent wraps and moulding trim kits to dress up the top and bottom of the column wraps, 3 create a raised or recessed panel look on the bottom of the partial bay window using a cellular PVC sheet and some mouldings, and 4 add a PVC railing system between the porch columns. Good luck with your project and thank you for your support of cellular PVC trim.

What do you recommend for a paintable caulking for the pvc! Thank u! In Charlton mass area!! Good evening John. The best sealants for use with cellular PVC are either ones with solvent as a component of the sealant or ones that have a polyurethane base. Since they contain solvent they must be fully cured before painting.

Typically 24 hours before painting. The next best are polyurethane sealants. Acrylic paints with polyurethane are also excellent coatings that provide super adhesion when compared to just straight acrylic paints. Finally, if you want a good paintable sealant use Quad Max or Weather Master. They are both paintable within one hour of application.

I hope you find this information of help. Enjoy the rest of your weekend. Hello, We sometimes rout into the surface of Versatex with our cnc machine to create raised panel, or shaker style exterior shutters.

As a result, the open cells and the milling marks tend to telegraph through the paint. Is there something that we can perhaps trowel over the surface and then sand smooth before paint, or between paint and primer? The first, which I think is the best because it can be sprayed on, is 2 coats of Valspar Bonding primer. One other fabrication tip. We have a small Weinig moulder. To minimize the dust building up on the tooling and on the operators clothes, we keep spray cans of Static Guard at the work center.

We have also placed an air line into the cabinet of the Weinig with multiple flex nozzles positioned at the tooling to move the dust away from the tooling and into the dust collection system. Hope you find this information of help with your Versatex fabrication projects. I am planning to use PVC to replace a rotted window sill and window trim.

I would like not to paint the PVC when finished. I intend to fasten the trim to the house with Cortex screws. I am not sure if I need to actually fasten the PVC sill itself — I may just wedge it in and let the wedges and trim hold it in place. The window is a standard size of about 36 inch by 30 inch so thermal expansion is probably not an issue. Do I still need to leave gaps where the PVC meets? I would like to use a single product, if possible.

First can I get by with a sealant, rather than adhesive? Is caulk and sealant the same thing? I want a watertight seal to protect the wood window and OSB to which the trim attaches.

Where the inner edge of the PVC trim meets the wooden window frame 4. Where the outer edge of the PVC trim meets the wood siding. The amount of cut edges here is very small — do I need to treat these differently to the PVC surfaces that are not cut? In response to your email. One of the primary factors in the movement of cellular PVC trim is its length. The other is temperature differential between when you install it and the max and min temperatures it will be exposed to on the wall of the home.

One product that acts as both a sealant and an adhesive while providing unmatched flexibility is NPC Solar Seal The product bonds well to PVC and wood, and performs exceptionally well in the field. This only issues are availability in your market and workability.

It has very good field performance characteristics but like NPC, you may find it a little more difficult to work with than non solvent sealants. If you want to reseal the cut edges consider sanding them with grit sandpaper stepping down to grit. Hi John, Thanks for your detailed reply. I went ahead and got most of the job done this weekend. I have two more questions.

To get it clean I had to scrape away all the visible caulk, although I assume its still watertight from the caulk that is hidden below the surface. Is this an advantage of painting, that its easier to keep clean? I used rubbing alcohol and this eventually worked on the face of the trim boards.

However the edges are giving me more trouble. What can I do to get the caulk off these edges and make it look as good as the face? Perhaps I should just apply white paint over it kinda defeats part of the purpose of white PVC trim? Hi, John — My husband and I have a two story stucco house in southern Florida and want to have the windows picture framed with PVC trim before the house gets painted.

So, now I need to know from you: Should we be concerned about this? If not, what stipulations should we give the carpenter about how he should install the PVC on our stucco walls? Thanks so much for this site and the benefit of your vast knowledge on the subject. We have projects throughout Florida where shutters, trim, mouldings and other cellular PVC elements have been attached to stucco without mould growth issues.

 
 

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